Smoked duck

Smoked duck and suckling pig are the two foods in Bali that every local will ask if you’ve tried. It was my last night in Ubud and I hadn’t tried either yet so I decided to attend a smoked duck class at Casa Luna.

Ducks are bred by rice farmers, who buy the ducklings once they have harvested their rice for the season. The put the ducks in the rice fields to graze and they help turn over and fertilize the soil. By the time the farmer is ready to plant the next crop of rice, the ducklings have grown up and can be sold for a significant profit. I love the symbiotic way the farmers here work with the land and livestock.

Duck is a luxury in Bali and is mainly cooked for festivals and for tourists. The plucked duck is kept whole and fully cleaned and is then massaged vigorously with spice paste. It is then wrapped in betel nut tree bark and placed on a bed of rice husks outside. A terra cotta pot is placed on top and then more rice husks are added to cover up the pot. Coconut shells doused in kerosene are placed on top of the husk pile and lit on fire. The heat from the slow burn of the coconut shells is conducted through the rice husks and over the next eight hours, the duck slowly cooks until it is tender. The result is flavorful and moist and the texture much more like pulled pork than any duck I’ve had before.

Now I can finally answer the question with pride that I have in fact had Balinese smoked duck.

The duck is hidden in a terra cotta pot under the pile of rice husks and the burning coconut shells

Additional information:
Casa Luna cooking
Honeymoon Guesthouse
Jalan Bisma,
Ubud, Bali
Indonesia 80571
Phone: +62 361 973 282
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